Dash4Dosh – day 9 – Moskenes to Finneidfjord

Starting Location: Moskenes

Ending Location: Finneidfjord (just south of Mo i Rana)

Total Distance Traveled (including this day): 3721km 

Bike Comfort Factor (1-10) :4

“Tired” Factor (1-10) :6

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My alarm went off at 5.30am.  There was no need.  We had an alarm.  It was Gregg Eldred.  Chris looked like he had slept beside an industrial scale fog horn.  I told Gregg if he did the same the upcoming evening I would put my tent poles in him (not a euphemism). This was seconded by everyone.  Packed the tents and rode the 500 metres to the Moskenes – Bodo Ferry.


The 4 hour ferry was a chance to sleep.  This was interrupted by having to charge everything we owned and then backing up all the videos/pictures people have taken onto my Mac.  Then, we also actually had internet access.  Crappy internet access, but internet access nonetheless.  Gregg and Chris went outdoors to take photos, Roy slept and I did backups/charging duty.  My chair was surrounded by a mass of cables.  I tried getting using the broadband connection however it reminded me of the joke that the one thing worse than no internet access is really shitty internet access.  Before I knew it, 2 hours of the trip had gone.  The views were stunning but not worth staying awake.  This was a 4 hour trip though, so I had factored in at least 1 hour shuteye.  Gregg was out cold on one row of chairs, Roy on the other, Chris was editing pictures.  After 3 hours I closed everything and decided I needed some sleep.  just as I was dosing off I noticed land nearby, then a city, then a harbour.

The 4 hour ferry ride was 3 hours.  I had just borked any chance of sleep.  Enter panic mode.  I hastily packed up everything which never suits me (I like to plan).  Chris went to wake up Gregg. Gregg didn’t take it well.

Chris “Gregg.. wake up…we have to get off”

Gregg (bolts upright) “WHAT?  WHY?  NO!”.

I think he was about to cry.  I was about to join him.

Down to the bikes and we were the last off.  And didn’t I just fecking forget to pick up my battery pack for my heated vest.  Dammit.  We headed south down the E6.  As we rode (south for the fist time in what seemed like ages) we started to head uphill back into the snow.  The area was barren with almost no traffic.  By about lunchtime we made it to the Arctic circle centre (and line) again in Saltfjellet.  It was time for photos, lunch and buying tat.  The arctic circle centre in Norway is a building in the middle of nowhere.  Just off a main road, it has a restaurant and shop.  Tastefully done with a few tourists and bikers.  Not as barren and old fashioned as the Swedish one (I preferred the Swedish) but it felt like we had hit our goal at this point.


This photo raised money for the charity (£5 per height joke/insult).IMG_1635 IMG_1633 IMG_1630


Chris and I had promised photos of the Arctic Lodges for sponsors, so after that and the food it was 3pm.  We were already a day ahead of schedule, but had planned to try to make it even more ahead of schedule by heading further south.  But by this stage, after some map reading, common sense prevailed.  We decided to head a couple more hours south to Mo I Rana and call it a day.  Riding south and back to ground level it started to get hot again.  Passing Mo I Rana I found a campsite near Finneidfjord, called Bjerka camping.   The owner laughed when I asked if they had space.  The place was almost deserted.  Summer season has not started yet.  Gregg and Roy went for a cabin and Chris and I elected for cheaper tent-space.  We joked with the owner for a while (a great bloke and I am sorry to say I lost his name).  Obviously taking pity on us he gave Chris and I a cabin for the price of the tents.  We were not going to pass that up.

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Dinner options were limited as you can see.  Chris, Gregg and I ate the food and had a beer whilst trying in vain to use the camping wifi.

IMG_1652Roy… well, Roy performed his nightly ritual!  Our bikes were simply embarrassing compared to his sparkling GS.


The owner came back over to us and talked bikes.  He was more a snowmobile guy and may or may not have shown us videos of “progressing” over mountains after purchasing items in a *cough* nearby *cough* country with friends.  Certain items are substantially cheaper in Sweden to Norway.  We all crashed by 10pm.  Next stop.  Hell baby yeah!

You can still donate to Dash4Dosh.  Just go here and throw some money at it.  Alternatively like it’s facebook page if you can.  It all helps a good cause.

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